A Guide to Winter Root-ball Tree Planting & Aftercare

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A Guide to Winter Root-ball Tree Planting & Aftercare

While a large portion of winter gardening duties revolves around plant protection, this is also the season when new trees or shrubs should be planted. Planting in cold weather, contrary to popular belief, is less stressful for the plant. 

As a result, bare-root trees and root balls are only available in the UK during the autumn and winter months. Plantings are made during their dormancy to ensure that young trees establish roots in their new home. Regardless of the cold weather, the root ball should be watered frequently once it is planted until it is established.

The importance of trees and green space in providing high-quality places to live, work, and play is universally recognised. We believe that landscaping is a vital component in the overall design of new developments and in creating an environment that people can enjoy. Protecting newly planted trees helps them to become established and improves their chances of survival.

Taking care of newly planted trees can:

  • improve their growth
  • reduce the costs of replacing dead trees
  • reduce the costs of future maintenance
  • prevent plastic littering from poorly maintained tree protection

As specimen or semi-mature trees are a costly investment, proper selection and planting by specialists such as ourselves are vital for optimal plant establishment. 

We consider ourselves to be partners to our customers, our community, and our environment, so let’s take a look at some of the best things you can do in gardens as winter approaches, and how you as a land manager can continue to look after these freshly planted trees to ensure they establish successfully.

The Facts

  • Instead of being grown in pots, these bare-root plants are grown in fields. 
  • They usually establish better than container-grown trees since they were grown in open ground soil as opposed to commercial potting compost. 
  • Bare-root plants have a higher chance of failure. 
  • Bare-root plants are typically sold with a ball of soil around their roots, as well as a hessian or wire and hessian wrap. 
  • These should be planted as soon as possible after delivery, but they can be stored for a limited time if the root balls are kept moist and in a sheltered location. 
  • Plant at the original soil level of the specimen, as planting too deeply might cause the plant to die. The top of the root-top ball should be at least 5cm above the surrounding soil. When planting, leave the wire and hessian in place, but cut the wire around the trunk and bend it back slightly. Both wire and hessian will deteriorate naturally over time.

Aftercare

As the establishing phase of specimen trees is typically three years or more than that of lesser trees, aftercare is critical. 

  • Watering: Drought stress is common in freshly planted trees (especially those with a big root-ball) during the first three years. Water shortages are more prevalent in dry, windy weather, so proper irrigation is critical. Watering aids such as irrigation tubes or watering bags can help with the watering of freshly planted trees. 
  • Weeding: Keep a vegetation-free circle at least 1.2m in diameter around the tree to avoid weeds, grass, and other plants competing for water. 
  • Mulch: In late winter, after feeding, add a layer of mulch around the tree to help preserve moisture and prevent weeds. Make careful to leave a 10cm radius around the tree’s stem to avoid the mulch from rotting the bark. 
  • Windbreaks: Young trees in exposed areas benefit from a temporary windbreak for two or three years as they establish. On the windward side, use fabric netting fastened to stakes pushed firmly into the ground. 
  • Tree guards: In some areas, young trees need to be protected against damage caused by rabbits or other animals. Place a tree guard around the tree trunk or surround it with a barrier of wire netting tied to posts.

Establishing a wildflower meadow

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Establishing a wildflower meadow

Wildflower meadows are an attractive alternative to lawns and borders that can last for months. Choose from annual meadows that only bloom once a year or perennial meadows that bloom year after year.

Which wildflower meadow should I choose? 

  • Perennial meadows grow best on weak soils as the grasses compete less with the wildflowers. We recommend removing the top layer of soil and seeding directly into excavated or rotovated sub-soil if you have rich soil. 
  • Annual meadows typically require rich soils. These are a great option if you are converting an existing border. 

When and where should wildflower meadows be sown? 

Depending on soil conditions, sow in March and April or September. Autumn-sown seeds germinate and establish quickly on lighter soils, however, some may not emerge until the following spring. On heavy soils, it’s best to wait until March or April, as waterlogging can cause seed and seedlings to rot in the winter.

Preparing the ground

  • Remove weeds by hand or cover with black plastic or a weed-suppressing membrane for at least three months before sowing in small areas. 
  • Dig up and remove the roots of aggressive perennial weeds like nettles, docks, and dandelions. You may need a landscaping contractor with the necessary equipment for larger areas. 
  • It may be beneficial to remove the topsoil on particularly fertile soils, but this will require machinery. 
  • Dig or rotovate the soil once it is free of plants, then firm and rake it to create a seedbed for new grass. 
  • Don’t use manure or fertiliser – high fertility causes grasses to grow too quickly, crowding out the wildflowers. 
  • Allow the soil to settle and any weed seeds to grow for four to six weeks. Before sowing, hoe them off. 

Sowing ​

  • Even large areas can be easily planted by hand. 
  • Different mixes will have different rates. As these minuscule amounts can be difficult to distribute uniformly, mix the seed with silver sand to make it easier to work with. 
  • Sow half lengthwise and the remaining half widthways to distribute the seed evenly. 
  • Rake or roll in lightly to ensure excellent seed-to-soil contact, then water thoroughly and let them develop organically. However, if birds become an issue, be prepared to cover the seed with netting. 

Aftercare 

Water smaller areas until germination occurs during dry times, but bigger areas must be left until it rains. During the first season, we recommend hand-weeding out any visible weeds that weren’t included in the seed mix. 

Converting your lawn to a wildflower meadow

Lawns can be transformed into wildflower meadows, but achieving the balance between grass and wildflowers can take several years.

  • Stop fertilising and using weed-killer on your lawn. 
  • Continue mowing weekly in the first year to weaken the grass. 
  • Some wild species will be able to establish themselves and flourish. 
  • Raise others from seed and put them into holes in the lawn as one- to two-year-old pot-grown plants. 
  • Many suppliers sell plug plants that can be planted directly into an existing lawn. Plant in small groupings of the same plant for a natural look. 

Wildflower turf

Wildflower turf is becoming more widely available, and it comes in the same short rolls as traditional grass turf. It is a good alternative to spreading seeds on weed-infested terrain or when you require quick establishment. As a more costly option, it is typically only viable for small-scale wildflower initiatives. The wildflower mix options will also be limited. 

Prepare the ground as you would for grass turf, but without the fertiliser. Although wildflower grass can be laid at any time of year, the ideal period is still during springtime. During the first summer, keep the plants well-watered.